Wednesday, November 2, 2016

Myrtle Beach ~ Do Over!

My husband and I got invited to meet our 
cousins in Myrtle Beach for a couple of days.
What a treat! 
We had good food, laughed, and enjoyed some RR.
Duffy's offers "free beer tomorrow"
but we were too laid back to partake.
We took several lazy walks on the beach.
We saw some of the Hurricane Mathew damage.
Below was the end of one of their piers.
I couldn't resist watching this service dog
taking a break in his work day.
Black Lab Love!
Below, nature's art.
One morning we joined the peaceful
wait for the sun to rise.
Well worth the wait... beautiful sunrise!
I need and want a "do over"!
Next time on a beach I will make more time to take my Canon 60D 
off AF, and use my manual settings.
One day, I'll not be "manual" challenged!

My Smartphone camera got some action too, below.

~ Notes for next time ~
Another useful trick to increase warmth in your final shot is to set WB (white balance) to the “sunny” or “cloudy” setting instead of “auto”. Although you can certainly add warmth in post-processing, your initial image from the camera will be warmer if you make this adjustment now. 
If you’re familiar with color temperature, you’ll know that there is a slight difference in the appearance of light at sunset versus what you’ll see at sunrise. Early morning light tends to be cooler (higher blue) than light in the late evening, which leans toward more warm color castings consisting of orange and red.
Settings for Sunrises:
In photographing a landscape at sunrise, you want a large depth of field, so use Aperture Priority mode and choose a fairly small aperture. Use the largest aperture (f/8) before the sun rises when you don’t have as much light. Use the smallest aperture (f/16) when the sun is above the horizon, and you have more light to work with. An ISO range between 400 and 800 helps you cope with the dim conditions before the sun rises. You end up using the lower ISO setting while the sun rises higher in the sky. A 28mm to 35mm focal length range is ideal for photographing landscapes. You can use image stabilization to ensure a blur-free photo, especially if you end up with a shutter speed slower than 1/30 of a second.
Rule: Sun in sky? Aperture priority. Sun already set? Use manual exposure.

Setting for Sunsets:  
When you photograph a beach at sunset, you want everything in focus, from the vegetation in the sand dunes to the distant clouds, which is what you get when you shoot in Aperture Priority mode with a small aperture of f/8 or smaller (a larger f/stop number). A low ISO setting ensures that you get a sharp image that has little or no digital noise. The Single Shot Focus mode is perfect because landscapes don’t move. When the camera achieves focus, you’re ready to shoot the picture. A wide-angle focal length range between 28mm and 35mm provides you with a wide view that captures the clouds and landscape with a nice reflection of the sun on the water. While the sun sinks and eventually drops below the horizon, the amount of available light changes. Therefore, you need to increase the ISO setting to keep the aperture at f/8 or smaller.
Manual Settings for an afternoon on the beach:
In such bright conditions, you’re going to need a low ISO setting (think 100 or 200) in combination with a narrow aperture (somewhere between (f14 and f22) with a moderately fast shutter speed. This can all change though.
Sometimes use a slow shutter speed like 1/6-1/8 sec. and let the wave curl over to give it a sense of motion. Pan blurs also work really well with waves. Go to 1/30th sec. or so and follow the wave with your camera. If you want to catch every single little water droplet, you can bump it up to 1/500-1/800 sec. and freeze everything. You'll find out what works for you pretty quickly.

When shooting into the sun, remove all filters from your lens, even your skylight filter. When a filter is on your lens, the sunlight passes through the filter and may (depending on the angle of the sun) bounce off the front element of your lens and back onto the filter, creating a ghost image of the sun in your frame.
  • An ND filter will allow you to reduce the intensity of light hitting your camera’s sensor.
  • A polarizing filter will reduce reflections and help darken the sky
  • A UV filter is probably the least useful by blocking short wave UV light (which used to cause loss of detail on film). Many photographers don’t like them as they can introduce lens flare.
Camera care on the beach:

  • Don't bring your camera to the beach on a windy day. You will almost certainly have a nasty encounter with that nemesis of all beach photographers.
  • Don't ever change lenses at the beach. Pick one and stick with it. Leave the others at home. Changing lenses on the beach is like opening a door to those little invaders and inviting them inside.
  • Don't ever put your camera down in the sand. Sand will find its way in.
  • If you think you got sand in your camera, don't be tempted to turn it on to see if it still works. It may actually still work, and that's the danger. Turning it on will get those gears moving, which will get that sand wedged into places you don't want it to go, and then it may stop working for good. Instead, keep the camera turned off until you can take it to someone who has experience in cleaning sand out of cameras.
  • Put a rain sleeve on your camera. This will help protect it from sand and will also have the double bonus of protecting it from saltwater, which can have a corrosive effect on your equipment.
  • Ask yourself how important those photos are. If you're trying to create a masterpiece, a DSLR is certainly warranted. But if you're just taking snapshots for your family scrapbook, consider a "tough" point and shoot camera. These cameras are waterproof, impact proof and most importantly can be washed in water after use. The same construction that keeps water out of the inside of these cameras will also prevent sand from getting in - and if you get sand in any of the cracks and crevices on the outside of the camera, you can simply soak it in water and the sand will wash away.
  • Article:  34 Sunrise and Sunset Photography Tips 
    1.  Watch the sky for clouds 45 minutes before sunset.
    2.  Scout for a location before shooting.

    Happy Click'n!


    1. good to see your blog pop up in my feedly again.. we love all things beach and what I see here is what we love most, deserted beautiful beaches to walk on. gorgeous pics. my dslr died so I can't do the changes described here, I learned them and now have no camera to use them. they really do make a difference

    2. Tragic news, hope you get another DSLR soon! Enjoy your day!


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